Chanel. In the hot tropics. What’s not to love? With a big build-up to the show starting with what seemed like the entire fashion industry Instagramming from their various hotel pools in Dubai, you knew you could always expect a big buzz around Chanel’s inter-season collection. With Dallas being a tough act to follow, Karl raised the fashion bar that little bit higher, by show-casing the collection not just in a beautiful show-space but rather his own island. Chanel Island.
Editor’s were taken by boat to view the show, which comprised of beautiful exotic prints (very Middle Eastern), petrol can handbags (totally inspired), Arabian slippers (very Princess Jasmine). From the hair, there was not one, but two hair looks created by Sam. The first was inspired by Marisa Berenson and Arabian Princesses, which Sam described as “a highly stylised idea of a late Sixties/early Seventies rich chic, brought into the modern day with a more natural, less-stiff finish.” For this look, he set about curling hair with a large-barrel tong, which he fixed with Sebastian Forte Spray, before then brushing and teasing with a Mason & Pearson brush for oversized volume. Topped up with Oribe’s Texturizing Spray at the roots for extra volume. These looks were larger than life. The second,straighter look, was blow-dried up and off the face with L’Oreal Professionnel’s Techni.Art Pli Volume Mousse and then combed high on the crown and finished with a spritz of Oribe’s Texturizing Spray. After smoothing the “bump”, the lengths were left unstyled and unbrushed, so designed by Sam to give the look more of a modern edge. Adoring each of the girls’ heads were also a myriad of different hair accessories, ranging from ‘inter-locking C’ tiaras, brooches and whole head chain pieces that were worthy of any royalty. Teamed with the make-up from Tom Pecheux, which featured flecks of real gold leaf bejewelling the inside corner of heavily smoked eyes, the whole look was a veritable Aladdin’s cave of treasure. 1,001 nights? You only need one where Chanel is concerned.
Calling all shoppers. This is an announcement to say that Chanel’s show this season was an absolute triumph. More theatre than just catwalk, Karl Lagerfeld had the Grand Palais transformed into a giant supermarket, complete with Cara, Linsey, Stella et al shopping the aisles for their Chanel produce (they had everything from cheese, to paint, to detergent, to doormats, all emblazoned with the eponymous double ‘C’ logo). So what for their make-up and hair? Eyelids were painted in primary brights infused with metallics and Sam created these exaggerated ponytails woven with tweed, pearls and camellias in true Chanel style. Speaking backstage, Sam said, “I blew up the proportions and detail of the ponytail, incorporating crimped extensions, braided hair in multi-coloured Chanel tweed rags, lace and pearls. I used Fudge Salt Spray, then Oribe Dry Texturizing Spray to create a dry volume, which was then crimped randomly, woven and braided with the Chanel fabrics, and fastened at the base with one of the woven braid”. Chanel dreadlocks? Just watch how the masses will follow…
With a new creative director at the helm, Fausto Puglisi, Ungaro embarked on a new era this season, with sharp tailoring, bold prints and a sleek feminine silhouette in the form of split pencil skirts, form-fitting trousers and accents of leather. Sam was creating a strong, but natural, hair look in tandem, via a graphic center parting and long lengths that had been gone over with the ghd eclipse for a smooth, high-shine finish.
Ah, Dame Viv. You can always expect the unexpected from her and her collections. And for her Gold collection show this season the look was every bit as outlandish as you might predict, but with a beautiful tribal spin. With make-up ‘face paint’ by Val Garland, who took her cues from the Peruvian tribe and the first couturier Charles Worth that inspired Vivienne’s collection, Sam was creating two distinct looks with the hair: the first an explosion of corkscrew curls, and the second a small head with a high-shine hair wrap. The final flourish? Some had a feather headdress – a true Vivienne accent.
“Undone rather than overdone” was Sam’s motto backstage at Isabel Marant this season, which has long been the backstage beauty look that resonates so well with beauty editors and fashion editors alike (who doesn’t want to look like an Isabel Marant girl?). With dishevelled hair and barely there make-up, Isabel Marant is a show where you can expect “cool, sexy, French style”. How? By prepping with L’Oréal Tech.ni Art Mousse, putting in random bends with curling tongs and then misting through with Bumble & bumble’s Dryspun Finish Spray. Then team with chunky knits, oversized shoulders, slouchy trousers and fur-lined boots and you are all set for winter, the Isabel Marant way.
Fact: Dries Van Noten loves a side parting. Season after season he chooses to have his hair be different variations on a theme – and who can forget the gold leaf foil laced through a side slick last season? This season Sam chose to give the side step more of a Fourties feel in the form of Veronica Lake waves pulled up off one side of the face with an oversized silver barrette and twisted up into a faux-bob. Texture played an important role in creating the look, with Fudge Salt Spray and Oribe Dry Texturising Spray being used to prep hair before it was tonged into a set wave and brushed out for soft retro waves. Easy Dries-y.
“Made in Italy” was the theme for Karl Lagerfeld’s Fendi show in Milan this season. Why? Because it’s the best place in the world for artisan detail, said his show notes. So it was more than fitting that Sam created these ‘basket weave’ wraps around the head that ended in a straight and low ponytail, in keeping with the “Lines of Purity” prompt that Karl gave to Sam when he presented him with a sketch of how he wanted the beauty to look (as he does with each of his shows).
What would be London Fashion Week without a little bit of fun, fashion spectacle. Step forward Anya Hindmarch, whose catwalk (yes, even accessories need a catwalk) was one giant barcode, which she sent her models down carrying Tony the Tiger (from the Frosties packet) and the Kellog’s cockerel emblazoned bags, as well as other accessories that looked like Digestive biscuit packets and Ariel washing-up liquid. Sam and Val Garland teamed up again to create a strong beauty look to complement. “It was modern day Stepford Wives”, said Sam. “These women were all perfect clones of each other shopping in the supermarket”. Hair was scraped back off the face, before ends were given a once-over with the GHD Eclipse styler for a perfectly straight and blunt look.
Paul Smith: the purveyor of British cool. Step forward an effortlessly chic aesthetic for a true ‘London Girl’, best explained through the messy ponytails created by Sam. Texture was key to the look with Sam working Bumble & bumble’s Dryspun Spray (already a season favourite) into mid-lengths and ends, with a slight bend put in with his trusty GHD Eclipse styler or some large barrel tongs. “This texture creates the character of a real woman”, he said backstage. And to that end, he pulled out wisps from the hairline to give the added effect of a woman on the go. All that is left is to throw on a gilet, pop on some sunglasses and this girl is ready to hit London town. Rule Britannia.
Marios Schwab’s hallmark is a minimalist, clean, uncomplicated but impossibly chic approach to dressing. So too, for the beauty look that goes with the collecton, with Sam on hair, coiffing half the models with hair distressed and down, the other half with mussed-up ponytails, and ‘raw’ make-up by the wonderful Val Garland. Speaking backstage Sam explained, “the most important thing is to have the same texture running through the girls’ hair, whether its up or down”. This girl is real, she is herself and that’s what makes the fashion and beauty at this show so alluring: its accessibility. Next season has never been so now.